In April, when all the birds of the raven family have offspring, you can sometimes find babies that have fallen from the nest, but are alive, under the trees. What to do with such yellowthroats? It all depends on his age. If this is a crow chick, the photo of which you see, it will not be difficult to get it out. But if he is much younger (only with stumps of feathers or completely naked), saving his life is fraught with certain difficulties.

First week of life

At this age, the crow chick is not yet able to independently maintain the body’s heat balance. The mother warms the children, and if the spring turns out to be hot, then she cools them down. Therefore, if you have decided on the almost hopeless task of saving a newborn raven, you need to build him an incubator as soon as possible. This could be a small box (for shoes or cake) or a pot. The inside of this container should be lined with a soft cloth. Make sure that the new socket is covered with a light cloth, and place an incandescent lamp above it. You can replace it with a heating pad placed at the bottom of the box, but this measure can only be temporary, since heating from below is inorganic for the raven. If the chick is shaking, increase the temperature. And if he opens his beak and breathes frequently, remove the outer fabric and reduce the heating.

What to feed a crow chick at this tender age? Adults are practically omnivores, but babies require baby food. It should consist of 30-50% grated carrots. This component is not only rich in carotene, but also helps give the food a sufficiently moist consistency so that the baby swallows a piece without choking. Another 30% is protein. Ground low-fat cottage cheese, boiled yolks, porridge. Minced fish and meat are very useful for babies. Baby formula added to the food will provide your child with vitamins, but we must not forget to add crushed raw egg shells to the food. This way the chick will fledge faster.

Second week of life

On the tenth day, the baby begins to develop the rudiments of future feathers. Thus, the raven chick no longer needs constant heating. Leave the lamp only overnight and turn it off during the day, but the temperature in the room should not be lower than +20 degrees C. Until the body is completely covered by the fluff, it is not recommended to remove the upper fabric from the nest. If in the first week you need to feed the chick every one and a half to two hours (with a break at night), then meals should become less frequent. You can teach the first command: emit a hoarse, loud “a” before feeding, so that the raven chick opens its beak.

When caring for ravens, it should be remembered that these birds defecate immediately during feeding, so before eating, the chick should be seated on a piece of newspaper. In the future, you need to accustom your pet to a place for the toilet. It is necessary to provide the bird with toys (preferably always new and shiny). Crows love to swim. Therefore, the chicks can be sprayed with a spray bottle, and when they learn to walk, give them a bowl of warm water for water procedures. Little yellowthroats should not be given water, as water may enter the respiratory tract. In the first two weeks, limit yourself to bread soaked in water or milk. Then, when the raven chick learns to drink, always provide him with a container of fresh water. If the bird gets used to you, you can teach it to talk and also take it for walks to stretch its wings.

In modern life, people are accustomed to having different animals. Most often these are dogs and cats, less often parrots and fish. But recently, exotic pets are increasingly appearing in homes. Some people pick up chicks that have fallen out of the nest and do not know what to feed the crow or baby dove. If you do this incorrectly, the pet will die. The well-being and growth of the chick depends on nutrition.

Before feeding crows or pigeons, make sure that the species is identified correctly. Chicks They have visible fluff. Most often you come across fledglings, which people usually save. Such chicks differ little from adults. Only their eyes are bluish, and the corners of their beak are yellow. Photos of crows will help you decide. Before picking up chicks, think carefully: can you cope with feeding them? After all, even if they die, this is a normal process in nature. If you “rescue” the chicks, you will not be able to release them into the wild. Therefore, you will need to decide right away where you will place the birds. Zoos generally do not accept animals from the public. Therefore, you will either have to keep them or look for other owners for them.

So, what to feed the crows? You should immediately understand that under no circumstances should you give them food from your table! It's filled with spices and so on. All this not only harms the chicks, but can also lead to their death. There is a stereotype in society that birds can and should be given bread. But that's not true. Bakery products do not provide any nutritional elements, but bring a feeling of false satiety.

Therefore, before feeding the crows, make sure that the product is useful. They are carnivores, so they need protein food. For example, you can give low-fat cottage cheese. In addition, you need to boil lean meat and grate it. Add the resulting mixture to the cottage cheese and mix. Then roll the resulting mass into small balls and give them to the chick. Teach that while the bird is small, it eats often. Therefore, you will have to be constantly nearby, including at night.

What to feed the crows when they grow up? It would be a good idea to give them insects. Especially the living ones. They will be interested in catching them. At the dacha you can catch woodlice and

ground beetles You can also try to find maggots, green caterpillars, bloodworms, and ant eggs. Birds eat all these insects with great pleasure. Adult crows can be given a raw chicken egg. They can carefully break it and drink the contents themselves. But you can give it if you are sure that they are not infected with salmonella.

It’s not enough to know what to feed the crows; you need to keep them properly. To do this, it is enough to make an aviary. You can make it yourself or buy a large cage at a pet store. This is a necessary measure, otherwise the birds will dirty the whole apartment and spoil things. Alternatively, you can keep them on. In the future, they can be trained to walk outside. In general, crows are quite smart birds and easy to train. This requires a lot of effort and patience from the owner. But as a result he will have a great pet.

Many will not believe that wise and important crows belong to the passerine order and are large relatives of common tits and sparrows. Crows look elegant, smart and intelligent, which is why some bird keepers keep them as pets. But before you bring such a bird into your home, you need to figure out what crows eat and how to accustom them to home conditions?

Appearance and behavior characteristics

The body weight of a raven can reach from eight hundred grams to one and a half kilograms. Moreover, its body length is from sixty to seventy centimeters, and its wingspan is from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and fifty centimeters. Other appearance features include:

• feathers on the throat elongated in the form of a beard;
• sharp, high and very massive beak;
• wedge-shaped beak;
• rather narrow but long wings;
• sharp flapping of the wing during flight;
• monochromatic body coloring;
• black plumage with greenish underneath and a purple or bluish tint underneath;
• in crows, the plumage has a matte black color without shine;
• the iris of the eyes is dark brown;
• the voice is trumpet and loud.

In flight, crows look like birds of prey and are even capable of performing some maneuvers. They know how to move well on the ground, have caution and patience.

In nature, they live in pairs and can only unite with their relatives for the night.

Crows are unpretentious and therefore can be found in forests, deserts, alpine tundra and even on Arctic coasts. They choose coniferous or deciduous forests, open areas near water bodies, and mountain landscapes. Settle on the outskirts of small settlements and in abandoned villages.

In large cities, these black birds can only be found in the North-West of Russia, some cities in America, and Ulaanbaatar. This is explained by the fact that crows avoid humans.

In winter they feed on garbage or carrion, so they look for food in landfills after picnics, near meat processing plants, fur farms, and roadsides. They're looking for mouse holes and chase small rodents.

Raven at home

The intelligent and elegant bird, which has the ability to imitate, is often kept by people as a pet. But how to tame a raven? To do this, you need to take into the house a crow no older than six months old. It is best if the chick is between two and three months old.

In order for the little crow to get used to people and home conditions, you need to spend a lot of time with him. He will consider him his master who will feed, raise and care for the chick.

Crows are active and large birds, so it is not recommended to keep them in cages. Enclosures are chosen for them, the minimum dimensions of which should be one by two meters. The height of the pet’s home should be two meters or more.

Aviary equipment:

Because crows are not known for their neatness, you will have to clean up after them often.

Once the house for your pet is ready, you can begin to tame it. To do this, the little crow will have to devote two to three hours every day. Reasonable and calm females are best tamed, since males are active and have a sharp character.

Walks

A raven should be tamed and trained as a bird of prey. Over time, you can even walk him on a leash. To do this, the owner must wear leather gloves on hands. The bird should be allowed to fly for one to two hours every day. Over time, the pet will get used to it, and it will be possible to let it fly without a leash.

If the raven is not in an enclosure, then it is better not to leave it alone in the room for a long time. This active bird is capable of scattering things, pecking at buttons on electrical appliances, tearing soft toys, and tearing off wallpaper.

Crows living at home will imitate the sounds they hear. This could be dogs barking, an owner coughing, or doors creaking. These birds won't sing.

Crows are omnivores, so the bird's diet should be very varied. There should always be two feeders in the enclosure. One with a volume of one hundred grams is for constant feed, and the second is for mineral supplements. For water, you can use a drinking bowl in the form of a half-liter jar.

You can give your pet and he will happily eat the following foods:

When preparing a diet, you should keep in mind that a third of it should consist of meat products.

You can't feed a raven:

The use of the listed products by birds will negatively affect the condition of their joints, bones, plumage and health in general.

To improve the appearance and health of crows give mineral supplements, which are prepared from crushed and mixed in equal proportions:

• burnt bones;
• calcined river sand;
• steamed earth;
• crushed charcoal;
• crushed bricks;
• shells from a boiled egg.

How to pamper a raven?

As a delicacy and at the same time entertainment, pets can be fed sunflower and pumpkin seeds, small quantities of low-fat nuts, fresh boiled brain bones, chicken bones boiled without salt, dry meats, and bagels.

The raven's portion should be like this so that he eats everything in one go. In hot weather in summer, birds eat less, and in winter their diet increases. Your pet should always have fresh water freely available.

Scientists say that at home, with good care and maintenance, crows can live up to twenty years. Having trained and raised a little crow in your home, you will get an intelligent and loyal feathered friend.

The crow is probably 1.5 - 2 months old, it simply asks for a mandatory indication of years, and 0 is not taken into account. Hello. Tell me what to do with the crow? I live near the forest, crows always settle on the fir trees outside the garden and raise their chicks, they know us, that’s why they are friendly. Yesterday I found under a tall tree with their nest a fallen crow, about the size of a dove, it walks not bad, but mostly it sits and doesn’t move, it can’t feed itself, it can’t fly, its wings and tail are still short, but the whole thing doesn’t seem to be damaged. I was advised to take him home so that the cats wouldn’t find him and feed him. When she began to carry him away, crows flew in and began circling around and screaming. She brought it to the house (only she wore gloves, so the smell of a person probably did not remain on him). I tried to feed him yolk and bread dissolved in water, he spat out almost everything, asked for a worm, but she couldn’t get it down his throat, the crows flew in and watched him near the house. In the evening, we decided to take him back to that tree, because I read on the forums that crows feed fallen children on the ground, and the crows themselves can climb up the tree into the nest. This morning I heard a little crow screaming loudly, I found it not far from that tree, it was sitting not moving, only the crows were flying and screaming at me, and they screamed as soon as I left the house, when I was far away, and they shouted at me, or now I am the enemy They think they were asking for help. Tell me what to do with the crow? It’s a shame, I’m afraid that they won’t feed him and he’ll die.

Hello!

In the first week from birth, chicks are not able to fully maintain their body temperature and in nature their parents regularly warm them or, conversely, cool them. Hypothermia and overheating are dangerous for chicks. If you take such a chick, then you will need to heat it, avoiding overheating. The chick should be placed in a small box (for a hooded crow chick - at least 15x15 cm, the height of the edges is 3-5 cm) or a pot, lined with fabric from the inside (make sure there are no loose threads in which the chick can get entangled), be sure to cover the top with a thin cloth or handkerchief, and above this “nest”, at a height inaccessible to the chick, place an incandescent lamp, or place an adjustable heating pad below. Heating from below is more effective, but also more dangerous, because... it is easier to overheat the chick.
The temperature in the nest should be between 30-33 degrees. After 7-10 days from birth, when the chicks have feather stumps, they do not need heating, but the air temperature should not be lower than 20 degrees. If the house is colder, then use low heat. It is better to stop heating gradually - first stop daytime heating, and after 2-3 days stop heating at night. However, until the chick has enough down feathers, be sure to cover the top of your “nest” with a cloth.
Watch not only the thermometer, but also the behavior of the chick - the chick begins to tremble when it gets cold, and when overheated, it begins to breathe more often, becomes restless and can shed the tissue covering it from above, and breathing with an open beak is a sign of quite severe overheating. If overheating, turn off the heaters and remove the “cover” for a while.

When and how to feed?

Feeding the chicks in the first 7-10 days is done every 1.5-2 hours, with a break at night from 0:00 to 6:00. When heating stops, feeding is reduced. It should be remembered that if a very hungry chick tears off its beak to feed as soon as it senses your presence (until it opens its eyes), then a command should be given to a not very hungry chick. The crow's chick's cue is a croak, not necessarily close to the original, but something similar, for example, a sharp, loud, hoarse "Ah!", then the chick will get used to it and will open its beak to any sound you make.

The bird can be seen by its droppings

It should be remembered that the rectum and bladder of the chick are emptied directly during feeding, with the first pieces of food. The chick begins to characteristically shake its tail and lift it up so that the droppings fall outside the nest. Your artificial nest may have higher walls than a real one, so as soon as you notice the chick is ready, give it a piece of pre-prepared toilet paper and catch the droppings in it. At night, the chick is deprived of such care and you will have to change the bedding in the “nest” if the sides of the nest are too high for the chick, but if the chick copes with throwing droppings “overboard”, you need to think in advance what you can and cannot put the nest on when there is no supervision for him.

What to feed?

It is convenient to feed raven chicks with wet food mixtures - mash, made mostly from grated carrots. Grate carrots on a fine or medium grater; the proportion of carrots in the feed is 30-50%, depending on other components. Under no circumstances should the food be sticky. Lumps of such food can stick together in the chick's throat and it will be extremely difficult for him to swallow such a lump. The food should not stick to the fingers and should be soft enough so that the chick can knead the lump with its beak without strain.
Carrots can be partially or completely replaced with turnips or rutabaga. Carrots are necessary not only as a source of nutrients, but also as a moisturizing component. If the mixture is thick and sticky, add carrots or carrot substitutes.
The second component of the mash is protein, up to 30%, and can consist of low-fat cottage cheese, hard-boiled egg yolks, minced meat, fish, dry ground gammarus, ant eggs, mealworms, as well as protein-rich cereals.
Vitamin and mineral supplements - crushed eggshells or calcium gluconate/glycerophosphate tablets, ground shell rock, chalk are necessary for chicks to grow feathers and strengthen bones. Bone meal, being a source of phosphorus, is also added to the feed. Grass flour, crushed sunflower, crushed sprouted seeds of wheat and oats, infant formula, and ready-made vitamin preparations are also used. You need to be careful with vitamin preparations - an overdose of vitamins is just as undesirable as a deficiency, and you can overdose a drug for a chick whose weight you do not know by uncontrollably using “human” forms of vitamins. Although for birds, especially large ones, it is not so easy to cause an overdose of vitamins, because Birds have a very intense metabolism, and it is especially intense in chicks. Thus, vitamin doses for birds are usually equal to those of the average dog. And if signs of hypovitaminosis appear, then you need not a preventive, but a therapeutic dose, which is 2-3 times greater.
Hypovitaminosis in chicks must be prevented immediately. Be sure to provide the chick with vitamin D (D3), especially if it rarely gets exposed to the sun. If a chick does not stand on its feet by 5 weeks, this may be the result of hypovitaminosis D. If the chick has incorrectly positioned or crooked fingers, then one can think of a lack of vitamin B2 (riboflavin). Vitamin D is included in vitamin mixtures “against rickets”; the latter name usually reaches pet store sellers faster. Riboflavin, like other vitamins, can be bought at a pharmacy and given in accordance with the bird's dosage, for example, for the treatment of large birds you need 0.003-0.005 grams per day, for 2-3 weeks, if you bought tablets of 0.002, then the bird you will have to eat 2 tablets every day. Most vitamins can be mixed with food, but not with hot food.
In addition to mash, you can feed birds with small lumps of crumbly cottage cheese, hard-boiled eggs, bread soaked in milk, undercooked rice, pieces of fish and meat, and cod liver. In nature, crows, rooks, and jackdaws feed their chicks with earthworms and sometimes mice.

Do I need to drink?

Some authors describe a method of feeding chicks only with liquid food, and some do not recommend feeding chicks at all, because liquid may enter the respiratory tract.
Indeed, liquid can do this, especially for a person inexperienced in feeding chicks. Therefore, it is safer to simply give the birds wet food or pieces of white bread soaked in water or milk. The liquid from the feed is enough for the chicks. Water can be provided for the chick when it begins to feed on its own, then it will figure out its own fluid needs.

Health to your pets!

Best regards, team" Veterinary practices"

Here is a short list of what can and cannot be given to our birds as food. You can read about each product separately in separate articles on this site. So, let's list:
It is forbidden:
- salty;
- fried;
- smoked;
- fatty;
- spoiled;
- sweet;
- milk;
— sausages and prepared meat and fish products;
— canned products;
— exotic vegetables and fruits;
— store-bought juices;
— alcoholic and carbonated drinks;

Feeding a crow chick...

It is convenient to feed healthy chicks with small lumps of food mixture - mash, moistened on the outside for easy swallowing. Food is placed deep into the chick's open beak, which causes a swallowing reflex.

Feeding weakened and sick chicks that refuse food should be done using a syringe with a rubber nozzle (an adapter from the system) so as not to injure the bird’s throat when jerking. All food should be heated to 36-37* C. Check the temperature by applying a syringe with the mixture to the back of the wrist - if the temperature is the same, or slightly higher than the person’s temperature,

then you can feed.

The chicks are fed easily digestible food, such as:
— baby food (without salt and sugar): baby milk-free buckwheat porridge, vegetable purees (carrots, pumpkin, apple);
- children's pates made from turkey, chicken or beef;
- chopped boiled chicken offal: heart, liver;
- boiled minced chicken, turkey and veal;
- crushed cereal mixtures of flakes that require cooking (oatmeal, wheat, millet, barley, rye, corn), poured with boiling water to the state of liquid porridge and cooled to the desired temperature;
- non-sour low-fat cottage cheese, a good feed additive, rich in nitrogenous substances;
- hard-boiled egg;
— feed of animal origin: meat and bone meal, fish meal, pharmaceutical yeast without additives (no more than 5% of the diet);
— as natural vitamins and minerals – finely chopped sprouted grains;
-from a week of age, add finely grated and squeezed carrots and apples.

Approximate basic mash for chicks:
- steamed mixture of flakes (the more names, the better) - 30%,
– non-sour low-fat cottage cheese – 10%,
- children's pate, minced meat or offal - 40%,
– crushed sprouted grain – 10%,
- squeezed out finely grated fruit and vegetable mixture (apple, carrots,
beets) – 10%.
The mixture must always be freshly prepared. It is advisable to include such
additives such as finely chopped boiled egg (no more than 10% of total
mash volume), yeast or meat and bone meal (no more than 5% of the mash).

Feeding fledglings.

For fledglings (after 8 weeks), all foods suitable for adult corvids can be used, but they must be ground.

Feeding adult birds.

Approximate basic mash:
- boiled buckwheat, brown rice (or steamed cereal flakes) - 30%;
- finely chopped boiled low-fat offal (or minced meat) - 30%;
– non-sour low-fat cottage cheese – 20%;
– crushed sprouted grain – 10%
- squeezed grated fruit and vegetable mixture - 10%.

Nutrition during the molting period.

During the period of feather replacement, the diet includes 5-8% of oilseeds, which maintains the brightness and shine of the plumage.

Drinking water..

Certain requirements are also needed for tap water, which after neutralization contains a small amount of chlorine. Drinking such water for a long period is dangerous for the chicks. To remove chlorine, the water is allowed to settle for two days in an open container. Water should be given in sufficient quantity and at an appropriate temperature - 28-20*C, and for chicks and sick animals - 24-26*C.
Of course, filtered water is welcome, which should have the same temperature standards. It is also recommended to use bottled water for babies or good table water, such as Nutrilak.

Standard mash is the main element of poultry feeding.

The basis:
— Buckwheat deal
- Brown rice
— Oatmeal with bran, requiring cooking
— Other cereals, but not instant and not rye
pour boiling water and cook. Leave it covered.
Can add:
— Perlovka
— Millet

Fruit and vegetable puree:
- Apple
- Carrot
peel, scald and grate on a fine grater.

Protein sources:
- Beef
— Poultry meat
— Low-fat fish
Add it boiled or better in the form of minced meat - this makes it more difficult for the bird to choose. These products should make up about 20% of the volume of the entire mash.
Also:
— Chicken eggs
1/2 twice a week.
— Cottage cheese 0%, not sour
one spoon two to three times a week.
— Premium dry dog ​​food
About 10% of the mash volume. Pre-crushed or soaked.

In addition to the main food, corvids can be offered:

— Lenten cookies - without salt, butter and sugar
- Cereal bread - without the same.
— Quail eggs 2-3 per week, including raw
— Shrimp or a piece of squid, boiled without salt
- Bones from meat or chicken, cooked without salt and not chopped
— Fruits without skin — peach, apricot, banana, pear
Just don’t give them in large quantities to avoid diarrhea.

Necessary dietary supplements:

— Sepia is a source of calcium with high bioavailability,
Don't let the bird chew it. Again, everything can end with diarrhea and drooling.
It’s better to grind a little at a time into a mash.

— Sea kale (dried kelp) — only pet store
A natural source of vitamins, iodine and other microelements. A small pinch into the mash, according to the instructions on the package, or two to three times a week constantly.

— Collecting seaweed is the same, only better. The composition is even richer, but is not found in all pet stores.
(These supplements will especially appeal to opponents of synthetic vitamins.)

Jackdaws and rooks eat well the food insects that can be found in pet stores.

Crows need to add meat on the bones or carcasses of food animals (from trusted suppliers) to their diet, because in nature, the raven’s diet is more “meat”,

than in other corvids.

It may make sense to use imported high-quality food for insectivorous birds as an additive to the diet of corvids.

Taken from the site http://ptic.ru//